Tuesday, November 23, 2010

2 Koreas in the News

update: this is a good review of the situation as well: link.

If you have heard anything in the news about the two Koreas don't worry. In fact that is what this article is saying.

There are several islands that are disputed in ownership near the border of North Korea (map). There have been several confrontations in that area over the years (link, link, link) including one yesterday.

This is the main Wikipedia page covering the event. It keeps getting updated as information gets clearer. What it looks like happened is the South did a planned military drill that the North said not to do, the North decided to 'defend itself' (official North media) by firing 100~200+ rounds of artillery into the disputed area killing a few people and unsettling fears in everyone else. South Korea did fire their own artillery in response and the damage is unknown.

One of the artillery hits can be seen in his video.

The US Embassy here issued an update:
This warden message is being issued in response to reports of North Korean artillery firing into the Northwest Islands (Yeonpyeong-do) off the coast of the Republic of Korea the afternoon of November 23, 2010. This artillery exchange was isolated to the Northwest Island area of the Republic of Korea and ceased as of 3:30 p.m. The Embassy is closely monitoring the situation. Should the security situation change, the Embassy will update this warden message.

The timing matches with Kim Jung-un, successor of Kim Jong -il, demonstrating his military power. This could also be another sword rattling for future food aid as conditions get worse in the North. This also matches the timing of the North showing off their nuclear capabilities to US scientists.

And I'll end with pretty pictures of the DMZ and links to the best expat blog about the South which will post way more than I ever will.

Sunday, September 12, 2010

School Begins + China

Now entering into our third week of graduate school I am getting a better idea of what I have gotten myself into. I now have filed almost all of the new student paperwork, have import things like student ID card and academic advisor and am starting to know where things are and how things work better than I did in the past. The learning curve is almost done.

I now have my 3rd Chinese visa, the most visas 2nd only to Korea (unsure how many I've had to far for this peninsula). I have airplane tickets, train tickets, and enough currency converted for this trip and hopefully the next. Considering how Chinese currency is going up in value it makes sense to convert more now rather than later. I have little stashes of foreign currency because in the next few years I'll be visiting China, Japan, and the US again.

Wednesday, September 8, 2010

Weather

The hot weather is near it's end right now. With the typhoon that recently came through it brought much needed cool and a rather wicked breeze through Seoul. According to the news reports the typhoons normally come through Jeju Island area (southern tip of Korea) but they have been going steadily northward and now are going through the middle of the peninsula.

I knew about a bunch of blown over trees (saw it all over the city) but didn't hear three subway lines were affected.

And the weather here changes quickly. Koreans pride themselves (and get taught in school) that one of the great things about Korea is it's "four distinct seasons." The problem is there really are two main seasons and it feels like fall and spring are more transitions. But for now the weather is wonderful and the rain and the winds have been wonderful for me as well.

Friday, June 11, 2010

Cheonan Aftermath

Well unlike the North when someone cries "heads will role" the South government doesn't actually kill them. They do however fire people from high level positions, even when they have cute Dixie cups.

There was a recent inquiry (watchdog group) into the official military report on the sinking of the Cheonan (which I am surprised they actually did an inquiry).

""Military officers deliberately left out or distorted key information in their report to senior officials and the public because they wanted to avoid being held to account for being unprepared," a BAI official said. (source)

Some choice quotes:
"Joint Chiefs of Staff Chairman Lee Sang-eui was heavily intoxicated on the night of March 26 when the sinking of the Cheonan took place. This represented an effective surrender of his command responsibilities."

"...military authorities willfully revised the time of the incident in order to avoid criticisms about an improper early response..."

"Park refused to disclose the extent of Lee’s personal responsibility, saying it would be “inappropriate” to do so, leading observers to contend that the announcement only presented an abbreviated version of the findings. "

"...following a military leaders’ forum...he traveled to Seoul by KTX in a heavily inebriated state...and, after spending about ten minutes attending a situation assessment meeting...(he) effectively abandoned his duties and fell asleep."

There are reasons why people don't trust their governments. Stating again I am proud though that people looked into the official story and held people accountable.

Wednesday, June 9, 2010

Finiances and Purges in the North

I had heard a lot about the currency reform last November north of the 38th. The idea was to exchange the 'old' currency for the new one at the rate of either 100 Won -> 1 Won or 1,000 -> 1 Won. The changes caused people's savings to disappear and will likely cause a rift with the people.

Being fare, this was no the first time their currency was re-evaluated. And actually I was surprised that there used to be an official exchange rate between North Korean Won and the US Dollar.

So with a tight economy they are looking for investors, like from Germany. There already is an industrial city open to outside investment but workers do run the risk of arrest for trying to preach what the outside looks like (true story, don't have time to find the link). And with the recent boat sinking hasn't helped matters much either.

But reading some (not exactly new news), I discovered the finance chief was executed by firing squad for the currency reform. Official statement "a son of a bourgeois conspiring to infiltrate the ranks of revolutionaries to destroy the national economy". Some people believe that this could mark the start of another purge within the North.

Sunday, May 30, 2010

Laundry

I've grown up doing laundry and was always careful about mixing light and darks or reds and lights, etc. But I've also met a lot of people who have mixed (university) and never had problems. In fact despite some of these washers being stuffed to capacity didn't seem to matter; the clothes still got clean.

Now, for the first time, a shirt that I've had for 3+ years, has decided to lend it's red color to all the lights in the load. Now several socks, undershirts, and underwear are the cutest color of pink I've ever seen.

The good news: the clothes were all old and not many were affected. The white shirts gone pink were from 2003 and 2004, so their prime had already past a long time ago.

The other good news: I have a fantastic washing machine. Yes the red bled onto other clothes but it was like a beautiful dying job. The red->pink spread perfectly on the clothes; no spots or splotches.

Monday, May 10, 2010

Import Stores in Seoul

A friend asked me where the import stores are and I spent nearly 45 minutes writing it up. I want to post it here as well so for future reference I can show this page instead of re-writing that all again.

So here you have a guide to some of the import stores within Seoul:

신촌 - behind 현대백화점 there is a 3-sided concrete park. At one end is a large 닭갈비 place. Next to it is an import store. It has a fridge, baking items, deodorant, and a lot of other food stuff.

신촌 - 신촌역 exit 8, walk straight, pass the Grand Mart, pass the Canon Store, pass the 999 Won place, and soon after the alley you'll see the road ... See Moreto your left slopes down and it's more like an enclosed traditional market. The entrance is between a locksmith/shoe repair place and a large bowling pin. Walk down and as you get close to an intersection (like 15 meters) there are several import stores. Good for toothpaste, over the counter medicine, and tons of snack foods.

신 촌 - 신촌 exit 8 (or in between exits 7 and 8 is basement 2 entrance) If you go into the Grand Mart, basement 1, near the milk they had an import section but it might have been moved when they changed around the store. Not too big but it's something.

해방촌 - 녹사평역 exit 2, walk straight down hill. The Yongsan military base is on your left. The slow ends and you'll hit a crosswalk. Ignore the crosswalk and instead turn left and keep hugging the military base concrete wall which will quickly turn into a ton of kimchee pots (this spot is nicknamed Kimchee Pot Gate). Keep going on the incline, on the left, with the cars next to you. First intersection on your left is a good import store. Keep going and you'll hit 3 or 4 more good import stores. Do try even the Philippino places as they have good Western food as well. There is one Philippino place I have in mind, it's decently far up on that main straight street, on your right. It has various phone card signs in it's window. On your left is a little mart which looks like an average Korean selfowned mart. However towards the rear of the store is where you'll find the import items.
Since this area is right next to the Yongsan military base it'll mainly have items from the base and sometimes items from Costco (like muffins, cheese, and instant oatmeal).

이태원 - 이태원역 between exits 3 and 4 (across the street from the Hamiliton Hotel) they are opening a Taco Bell (first one outside of the military bases). This area has a lot of Muslims and hence has a lot of Halal foods in their marts. If you go on that road~ish you'll find some import places and tons of international restaurants if you wander around enough. To be honest I don't know Itaewon as well as other expats. This is a great area for curry supplies as well. But I also found that red packages of curry (domestic brand, forgot the name, available in places like E-Mart) are available in more flavors than the standard yellow and are darn good.

동대문 - Inside Doota, go up several floors, near the escalators and near a coffee shop there is a good import place. I am not positive which floor it is but it's up at least several floors.

Express Bus Terminal - Look at a map, find both Express Bus Terminal and 반포역. In between those is a 4-way intersection. Go north on that (towards the 한간, I normally am on the bus when I am in that area bus lines 143, 342, 362, 4318 all work). And one bus stop past Express Bus Terminal/north of that big 4-way interersection, on the left, is a McDonalds, a Pizza Mall and a place called Kim's Club. You'll want to enter the building just right of McDonalds and you'll go down an escalator. Drop off your backpack in the lockers, go inside the store. The first part is all non-food items; keep going and you'll find the food area of the store. On the right side, right before the food court-like stores (there are like 3 or 4), you'll find a nice import section. It has a wood motif and has multiple rows of things.

Costco - There are 4 locations within Seoul; Ilsan, 양재, 영등포, and the 4th I forgot the exact location. Their website has basic maps with locations but were not helpful before. Maybe they have been updated? Membership is around 35,000W or 40,000, I forgot. Everything is big sized, no plastic bags provided but they do give their used cardboard boxes. These stores have a lot of import items from the West (sometimes British chocolates) and some Japanese items as well (Japanese style 짬뽕 is wonderful). Like Costco in the US they only accept 1 kind of credit card and it changes, they don't take debit cards, they really only want cash. Keep this in mind. When thinking of how much money to bring expect everything to cost between 10,000W and 15,000W. Also keep in mind how hard it will be to take it home.
This store has a lot of import items, all big sizes, and pound for pound cheaper than you'll find anywhere outside of a US military base. Great for things like peanut butter, jelly, various cooking sauces, cereals, trail mix, cheese balls, muffins, bagels, bread, marshmallows (so hard to find in Korea), vitamins, cheese (normally so expensive in Korea) and also decent priced pizzas (also hard to find in Korea) and cheap passport photos (but for technical reasons "passport" sized in the US and in Korea are different sizes. So if you need US passport sized pictures then you should get them in the subway stations. The difference between them are they Korean ones are the same size as the one found in a standard US passport; a rectangle. But the US government likes a wider image (square) and for things like renewing a US passport they want the square sized, stapled to the application, and then they cut it down to a rectangle.
You need a membership to get into the store and need to use it to buy things (except at their food court).

And technically you aren't supposed to but if you have an army friend they have access to things on base as well.

Friday, April 30, 2010

US Embassy - Passport

I just got the monthly mass mailer from the US Embassy in Seoul. I noticed point "5. It is midnight. Do you know where your passport is?" It goes on to talk about replacing lost/stolen passports and finishes with "If you lose more than one passport in 10 years, your replacement passport will be limited to one-year’s validity. So keep those passports secure!"

I knew that people under (I think) age 16 have their passports valid for less than ten years, but I thought age was the only reason for a shorted period of validity.

Last week I stopped by the embassy to apply for a new passport. Mine is hitting the 10 year mark soon so it's better to renew before summer starts. Their photo machine in the lobby is now gone, which is a shame because "passport photos" in Korea and "passport sized photos" in the US are different and my Costco "passport photos" were too small. But I will admit they gave a great map to a photo machine in the stairwell of a district office a block away. Yes, it's in the stairwell next to the elevator. The lady was cleaning it and assisted in the process. I found out she knew just enough English to do her job and my other chattings had to be spoken in Korean.

The last time I was in downtown LA I remember seeing concrete barricades in front of some government building and really felt uncomforted to see those. I did spot some new planters in front of the US Embassy and on closer inspection found them to be the prettiest barricades I've ever seen.

Wednesday, March 17, 2010

Emotional Masks (or a nervous laugh)

You could also say it as "putting on a happy face" but it happens plenty over here as well.

I found a great group of images that were taken within a moment of each other. The girl on the right is Yuna Kim figure skater as she and the other Olympians returned to Seoul.

It appears these images were taken after the Culture Minister tried to hug Yuna unsuccessfully. And if it's worth looking through tons of images you can see he's trying to hug everyone.

Someone took the original video from the event and edited it in such a way where it looked like he was trying to molest the medal winner (and no, I can't find that video).

It now it gets even better. The government has filed defamation charges against the uploader of the edited video.

It's reasons like this that Reporters Without Borders has added South Korea to their Under Surveillance list; a sub group under the Enemies of the Internet.

Monday, March 15, 2010

Tuesday, March 9, 2010

Oscars

Despite finding a television complete with remote and rabbit ears, we have yet to hook it up. Even if we did I doubt we would be able to see the Oscars and it would be when I would leave for work.

So with that in mind, I waited around 18 hours after the ceremony, checked my favorite Chinese website, and got download links for the whole program including red carpet talks and after party stuff. The site also said which movies had won awards and then provided links for those movies to be downloaded as well. Ah the power of the internet.

Tuesday, February 23, 2010

Dictionary

It's amazing how incredibly simple things can become so complicated living in another country. In Korea I have been able to read and write for years, but I remember visiting Taiwan and being unsure where I could purchase soap. And then if you can find the store is this the soap for clothes (they also sell bars of soap for clothes) or is it for your face/hands? And then you see a bottle of toothpaste with a black man in a top hat. At least it is toothpaste, right? And as a side note my friend was shocked that I said it could be considered offensive. "But why?" was the response. "It's the best toothpaste in Taiwan!"

Well since I've living in Korea for a combined three years now, I have those basics down. I can get toiletries, I can get books and import magazines, I know where to find Taco Bell (on the US military bases and they are opening one in Itaewon soon), but some things continue to remain a challenge. My dictionary broke. I had it for 2 1/2 years. I used it almost everyday. I used it so much I wore off the serial number and a bunch of the paint. Well the screen broke and I needed to take it in.

But where to go? I tried to search online and just couldn't find it. I asked a friend and they gave me directions. I went there and they had since moved to another part of town. With the address they gave me I was able to locate it on a map but it was in a nondescript building behind a security door.

From the screen breaking to finally being able to drop off the unit took almost two weeks. I had spent tons of time, asked various people on the street for directions, and was finally victorious.

I was elated. Telling this to a friend who has never been overseas their response was of confusion; "Okay, so you dropped it off at the repair center. And why are you so excited?" But talking to a friend who has lived by herself for years, aka someone who understands how complicated little things become, truly understood.

Thursday, February 4, 2010

On The Big Screen

In 2008 I helped with a film here in Korea. I sat through the crew screening the night before the media premiere and waited for my name to appear in the credits, only it never came.

My connection apologized and said my name would be in the next film. Well last night the next film came out; 의형제 (Brother, or a better translation is "two people who are so close they are like brothers"). For the same trailer and a promo poster pic here is the link and You Tube trailer link is here.

I got opening day tickets with a good friend,watched it without subtitles, and waited until the credits. Under the 'special thanks' category at the end, there was my full legal name in capital letters with 님 at the end (honorific ending).

The main actor is one of Korea's biggest actors. The cinematographer and editor both worked with that actor on "The Good The Bad The Weird" together; which was one of Korea's highest grossing domestic films (#13).

Despite no subtitles, we followed the movie well, loved the music, the cinematography was wonderful (the camera kept moving and I love that), and after seeing the credits I was floating.

Monday, January 4, 2010

Japan Said I'm Sorry How Many Times?

Over the course of nearly a decade I have heard from various pen-pals, friends, random people I meet, and of course news articles, about the horrors of war, the occupation of Korea, and comfort women who were 'still waiting for Japan to apologize to them' (and seen photos of survivors literally wailing in the streets refusing to rest until they get an apology).

After confronting a friend who knows far more about Japan then I do, I asked why - as Koreans have stated so many times - has Japan not said sorry?

My friend replied that they had done so and multiple times at that. Yet I was surprised. Why hadn't I heard about it then? Why were the Koreans so sure that Japan had not done so?

Purely by accident I found a list of the times Japan has apologized to various groups about previous wars.

Here is a brief list of each public apology that was aimed in some way at Korea:
22 June 1965 - Korea
24 August 1982 - Asia
26 August 1982 - Korea
6 September 1984 - Korean President (Chun Doo Hwan)
23 October 1985 - UN
1989 (exact date unknown) - Korea
18 April 1990 - Koreans
24 May 1990 - Korean President (Roh Tae-woo)
25 May 1990 - Korean President
1 January 1992 - Korean comfort women
16 January 1992 - Korean President
17 January 1992 - Korean + comfort women
6 July 1992 - comfort women
4 August 1993 - comfort women
31 August 1994 - comfort women
9 June 1995 - Asia
July 1995 - comfort women
15 August 1995 - Asia
23 June 1996 - Korean President (Kim Young Sam)+ comfort women
8 October 1996 - Korean President (Kim Dae Jung)
28 August 1997 - Asia
16 January 1998 - universal
15 July 1998 - comfort women
8 October 1998 - Korea
August 10, 2000 - Asia
August 17, 2000 - Asia
April 3, 2001 - Asia
September 8, 2001 - many countries
October 15, 2001 - Korean President
2001 (exact date unknown) - comfort women
September 17, 2002 - North Korea
August 15, 2003 - Asia
April 22, 2005 - universal
August 15, 2005 - Asia
March 26, 2007 - comfort women

You would think that 35 recorded apologies from over 4 decades, including multiple times directly to four Korean presidents, and even to North Korea would have, at some time, have actually been reported within Korea. Which to be fair it probably had been but the masses still don't believe it ever happened.

Saturday, January 2, 2010

Homesick

I was looking through pictures of my friends' travels to the US; California and New York. As I was looking at the various pictures I started see things and places I haven't in several years. I saw resturaunts and drinks I haven't had access to in quite some time. And suddenly I felt myself starting to miss them.

It's not that I used those products often; maybe once every 4+ months. It was the fact that I no longer could get it if I wanted it. The choice was no longer mine to make.

I walked away and took a shower and for 20 minutes my mind went back and forth; from I miss ____(place, food, person, experience) to ...wait a second, I've been out of that country for how long? Two and a half years? Seriously, 2 1/2 years and I'm feeling homesick for...the first time? Maybe the second?

I think I've felt this way before while living here. Maybe around a year or so ago. So that's twice in 2 1/2 years.

But I felt that before; frequently in my hometown. I was with family, friends, a job that I still miss to this day, and access to all things in my home-culture. Yet I felt homesick there for here.

And now it's been about twenty minutes from when I started to feel homesick and now I just feel confused. I'm not homesick, I have found my place in the world, but I don't have access to the things I used to for most of my life. And then the best thing happened. Talking about this outloud, my friend responded with "most of your life so far."

Just because I have lived most of my life in country A doesn't mean I have to be tethered to it. I have the chance to continue to live in country B. To continue to make my life here.

To quote the movie "Traitor" "what language do you dream in?" I don't really dream in other languages but I find myself more and more thinking in the language of country B.

I will continue to ponder my identity as I am not fully country A and not fully country B; and I never will be. I've talked to and read from people who have done this 20 years+ and then they came to that conclusion. I find peace that I know that now.